"EMBARKING ON IDENTITY: A GYPSY'S PILGRIMAGE TO SAINTES-MARIES-DE-LA-MER" - BY BELA VARADI
As international Holocaust Remembrance Day approaches on January 27, stories emerge that echo the enduring impact of historical traumas. One such narrative is the compelling journey of Sophie, a French-born woman whose family, gripped by the fear of the Nazis during the Holocaust, willingly relinquished their Gypsy identity. In a profound quest to unearth her roots, Sophie's pilgrimage led her to the sacred grounds of the Gypsy festival in the quaint seaside haven of Saintes Maries-de-la-Mer
Annually unfurling on May 24th and 25th, this religious celebration venerates the patron saint of Gypsies, Sara-la-Kali or Saint Sarah. The narrow streets of this Provençal port city swell with the spirited presence of hundreds and thousands of Gypsies, Travelers, Roma, and impassioned devotees, converging to honour their cultural tapestry.
For Sophie, the decision to attend the festival was an epochal stride towards emancipating herself from the shadows that veiled her Gypsy heritage within her family. Her father's recent passing was the catalyst, prompting her to navigate the intricate tapestry of her identity against the backdrop of the two-day religious extravaganza.
The festival orchestrates a symbolic re-enactment of St. Sarah's life, culminating in a procession where her wooden statue is ceremoniously immersed in the sea. The congregation becomes a fervent sea of seekers, each yearning to touch the sacred artifact and secure the benevolence of the venerated saint.
Born in Paris and having traversed the landscapes of Angola and Bolivia, Sophie's journey was a perpetual quest for belonging. Married twice with three children, she grappled with the absence of a Gypsy heritage deliberately shielded from her by a well-intentioned father. Attending the festival marked a poignant moment of defiance against a lifelong search for identity.
Fatigued from the spiritual crescendo of the event, Sophie found solace in contemplation. Standing beside St. Sarah's statue, she unraveled the threads of her family's history — the harrowing escape from the Porrajmos, the agonizing decision to shed their Gypsy name in the face of adversity, and her father's denial of their true identity. In the presence of Saint Sarah, the traumas that once loomed large receded into the distance, and Sophie sensed an elusive belonging.
As the world prepares to observe International Holocaust Remembrance Day, Sophie's odyssey stands as a testament to the enduring echoes of historical upheavals, the resilience of those reclaiming their roots, and the profound significance of cultural rituals in the ceaseless journey of self-discovery.
Words and photographs by Bela Varadi